Mooching The Mynd (20/09/2014)

Steve Gilbert (Fell Finder) is the real oracle on the Shropshire hills; a local lad who’s moved north but still feels the pull of his home patch every now and again. It was Steve who really opened my eyes to just what a huge tract of walkable land there is if you take in The Stiperstones, Clun Forest, Pontesbury, The Caradoc Hills and The Lawley; plus, of course, the hills of The Long Mynd. And that’s by no means the complete list.

We’re still a long way short of covering all of it but we have made a concerted effort over the last couple of years to get a better feel for the place. This has been partly by means of a few longer outings, where the priority has been mostly covering ground, but also by days where we’ve just ambled around the valleys and tops, getting our bearings and trying to make sense of where we are standing right now in relation to where we were last time and the times before.

It’s a surprisingly complex area: straight lines are few and far between; climb out of a valley and chances are you’ll emerge not quite where you anticipated; head for a point on the skyline  and be prepared for it to take a bit longer to get there than you might have expected; the vegetation obscures paths in summer and gradually reveals them again from autumn. And, as any local – Steve included – will tell you, mist and fog are not exactly rare occurrences. I couldn’t think of a better place for anyone to learn and practice navigation skills.

Carding Mill Valley draws people in the most numbers, particularly the summer weekend and bank holiday crowds, but even on the busiest days it doesn’t take too long to access quieter spots; and there are plenty of them. Our most recent ‘mooch’ actually started from Carding Mill valley, albeit on a quiet, midweek morning; the apparently erratic and unstructured nature of the route is plotted on the map below and is totally in keeping with the approach we’ve been taking…

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If it looks like madness, I can well understand. All I can say is that it feels better in the walking than it looks in print.


Standing on the topmost of the National Trust car parks and looking west across the burn (which I think is called ‘Ash brook’ lower down but appears to be unnamed here), there is an obvious ridge which takes a clearly defined line towards a rocky outcrop (Cow Ridge). There are a few straightforward scrambling opportunities along the route, most of which can be avoided by minor detours. For most of the ascent the rocky bluff looks like the top; it isn’t, but by the time you get there the hard part is done.

Crossing the gently rising ground, heading W/SW will bring you fairly quickly to a tarmac road which climbs out of Church Stretton. Turn right as the road is joined and then look for an opportunity to step off the tarmac and onto a path which runs parallel to it; not that the road is particularly busy. Eventually the road splits and one fork peels away to the left, but the path keeps straight ahead and then slightly right, always climbing gently towards a level horizon. At the crest of the ridge, the Shropshire Way is joined and – if visibility permits – there should be 360º views.

long-mynd-26-0-813_0020The high point of the Long Mynd is Pole Bank and this is reached by turning left and continuing to climb steadily. Fairly soon, a trig point will come into view.

Just beyond the Pole Bank top there is a small copse, which can be a useful lunch spot on a wet day; there is not much in the way of shelter once you’re out on the high ground.

The copse is fenced, but the trees overhang the fence far enough to afford cover. There are beehives inside the enclosure and a non-stop procession of honey bees to and from the heather, when it is in flower. However many there are (and there must be hundreds of thousands), they will fly all around you without once bothering you. The accumulated noise they make is astonishing.

Lunch consumed, we retraced our steps along the Shropshire Way and, ignoring the path down into Carding Mill Valley (which we were saving for later), crossed the moorland on a springy, green track, which meets a fence just as the ground begins to fall away. Turning left and following the line of the fence, eventually brought us back to the Shropshire way, near to the site of a pair of bronze age barrows marked on the OS map as ‘Robin Hood’s butts’. In all honesty, they are pretty unprepossessing and without prior knowledge, and closer inspection, you would see them as just a couple of natural undulations in the terrain.

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Female wheatear, Long Mynd

Rejoining the Shropshire Way, we walked until we met the junction with the path down to Carding Mill Valley and Church Stretton. This path is usually saved for the final walk back down, as it gives some of the best views and is often busy with birds, taking advantage of the relatively small number of trees, which mostly cluster on the lower slopes around the bed of the stream. A stream which can frequently be heard long before it is seen. We have seen stonechats, chiffchaffs and wheatears, among others; a pair of kestrels – understandably enough – seem to have this part of the hills as a regular beat.

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Grey wagtail (pictured near to Light Spout waterfall)

Speaking of raptors, we have – on different days and at different times of the year – spotted buzzard, kestrel, sparrowhawk, red kite and the occasional peregrine. There are, by reliable accounts, both merlin and hen harrier in the vicinity, but we’ve never been fortunate enough to come across either; the terrain and habitat would certainly support both. Ravens, in decent numbers, are pretty much guaranteed year round.

The Long Mynd, and the neighbouring hills, have a distinctly different character to most others which are easily accessible from the west midlands (we can reach them in under an hour). Much closer, in texture, to some of the Welsh ranges and we often comment that they have a feel of The Berwyns.

Perhaps it’s the climbing in the company of water that does it. Whatever the reason, it’s pretty high praise.

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The squeezed middle (05/04/2013)

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Drifted snow and loose, sandy soil is a recipe for an unholy mess. It will get worse before it gets better!

Mostly our weather locally seems to be westerly in character; the prevailing wind blows generally from the south west, very few days are totally free of cloud and whatever mid/south Wales has been getting… well we get what’s left over. The latter part of this winter has bucked that trend and the south and west midlands seem to have become a far-flung outlier of the north-east; colder, drier, and with a biting wind carrying hints of Scandinavia and the Baltic. 

 

We’d come to the local hills to check on the bluebells. It’s a few weeks yet before they’ll reach their best  (whatever that might mean) but by now there should be clues as to what we can expect. After the bonanza years of 2010 and 2011, last year was a disappointing, muted showing; slow to emerge, tentative and stunted, the display unconvincing and all too brief. 

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Worcestershire Beacon and North Hill – some 25 miles distant and three hundred odd feet higher – are hazy but clearly holding snow on their northerly aspects. I know from experience that the summit ridge of the Malverns can be a bitingly cold place in an easterly.

In this most delayed of springs, the signs are not so encouraging; perhaps unsurprising when clusters of snowdrops still retain their fading flowers into April and the garden Forsythia is a solid month behind schedule. The hills still hold snow – plenty of it – well below the thousand foot mark, with only the southerly aspects becoming substantially clear. The new camera has so far spent most of its time tripod-mounted and pointing at the tree outside the kitchen window. This winter we appear to have both long-tailed tits and siskins as residents, rather than occasional passers-by. I did however stumble across a kingfisher while out walking and managed to get a couple of shots, despite its reluctance to sit and pose…

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Not pin-sharp, but focussing time was strictly limited.

From the vaults: Remember the days? (14/11/2012)

P1060137The days when we’d write about walks and walking? We were so much younger then; wild like the wind (that’s Cat Stevens, by the way, if it sounds familiar). What happened to us? What became of the people, we used to be? I’m now beginning to think it might be possible to construct an entire post from plagiarised song lyrics. Seriously, though; I’d almost lost sight of why I started this blog…

Outings of late seem to have been shoehorned into the gaps between extended passages of what is apparently known as life. Sustaining yourself via the misguided belief that things are going to get easier after next week seems to be part of the human condition. It’s a bloody good job those seismic shifts in times bygone folded up a few hills for us.

The whole of Sunday being already divided into a series of bite-sized time slots, it was Saturday or nothing for a quick blast around the local hills; not ideal – these days I am much more of a leisurely saunter than a quick blast disposition.

The forecast was for early mist and rain to clear quickly. For a while this looked to be erring on the side  of optimism but eventually the last of the cobwebs were dispersed and there was a rare clarity to the air; more akin to a crisp winter’s day than an autumn one after a damp start, with views to the ‘next’ layer of hills – the ones you don’t always get to see. Under the tree canopy things were different – a general dampness and a smell of fungus; earthy but not unpleasant.

By autumn standards it’s been relatively windless for a good few days now and there are many millions of leaves just waiting for that last nudge to send them tumbling to the woodland floor. Then it will all look different again.

We are keeping our eyes open for signs of diseased ash trees: they are relatively few in number on the local hills but are one of the more prolific varieties to be found along canal towpaths and riversides. Leaves either on the turn or already fallen makes spotting early signs all the more difficult.

From the vaults: Madness and sanity (22/09/12)

Birmingham, like other cities around the UK, indeed around the globe, was log-jammed yesterday with brand-loyal fanatics insistent on being among the very first. Apple had launched the latest incarnation of its staggeringly successful iPhone dynasty and pre-orders were ready for collection; collection in some cases by people who had ‘camped’ since lunchtime on the previous day.

I know virtually nothing about mobile phones and the iPhone 5 is probably technologically brilliant and intuitively clever in all sorts of ways; although apparently the maps don’t work particularly well. What baffled me was that so many people – many of them well into their adult years – would not be able to contain their impatience for even a day. And Birmingham was, by all accounts, a study in orderly calm compared with some places – Manchester for example, where scuffles broke out among those in the queue.

Pricing for the iPhone 5 starts from just £529!

Earlier today we found a spot a few feet below the ridge of the Malverns – just far enough below to be out of the wind (an easterly carrying the first warning bite of autumn), sat and ate cheese and pickle sandwiches, flapjacks and fruit, drank cups of freshly brewed tea. We watched the birds in the foreground, the undulating countryside of Herefordshire and Worcestershire in the middle distance, the hills of mid Wales and Shropshire on the horizon.

The bill for the whole day – including the cost of fuel and the car park – would have struggled to reach fifteen quid.

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From the vaults: Housman country… (24/05/2012)

“Into my heart an air that kills
From yon far country blows…”

Although not today as it happens. On Wenlock Edge the wood’s unruffled; barely a breeze disturbs the canopy of the trees, just a never-ending symphony of birdsong. No chill from the east, no squalls from the west; atop the ridge things are as calm and sedate as they are down in the secluded hollows. The May sunshine, following the long, wet weeks preceding it, has released insects in huge numbers, and for nesting birds, with youngsters close to fledging, the timing could not be more opportune.

The number of lightning-blackened stumps where the ridge stands at its highest above the surrounding land, suggests that the edge catches the brunt of its fair share of storms. A variety of woodland birds are not slow to exploit the weakened timber and excavate themselves a nesting place; among them the confusingly named marsh tits, which are, in fact, a woodland variety.

Expert birders might consider this to be cheating but the National Trust have built a hide, just off one of the main paths, and positioned feeders with a variety of seed mixes in a small cleared area. As a couple of non-expert birders, we were grateful for both the facility and the rest. One thing we did notice was the striking colours of the birds in the area, particularly those with any shade of red or red/brown in their colouring. Chaffinches, nuthatches and particularly a greater spotted woodpecker were all vivid against the pale green of the woodland. Whether that can be attributed to something in the soil (mostly limestone), the vegetation, or simply the quality of the seed in the feeders is anybody’s guess.

             *               *              *              *              *              *              *              *              *

What are those blue remembered hills?”

Wenlock Edge isn’t a place I know particularly well. Sometimes, on the drive home from Wales, I’d use it as a stopping off place, pull onto one of the car parks dotted along its length for a quick brew, and then stroll a couple of miles or so before returning to the journey. I’ve never pieced all of those short sections together into a single day out; it’s really more a case of half-remebered hills for me.

We’ve decided that we’ll return a little later in the year, fill in a few more of those gaps, and hopefully get to see some of the plants and flowers which are at their best in mid to late summer. Particularly the orchids: partly protected from disturbance by the fencing which runs around the perimeter of the former quarry excavations, the orchids alone justify a visit; that’s something I do remember.

This blog – dedicated to the area – is worth a look…

http://wenlockedgenationaltrust.blogspot.co.uk/

From the vaults: The Malverns (09/08/2011)

p1060346For anyone considering walking the Malverns, my suggestion would generally be to avoid summer, particularly summer weekends. Lovely hills they may be, with that long undulating ridge and contrasting views east and west, but you’ll never have them to yourself. Mid-week in winter is probably as close as they ever come to what could be considered quiet. Probably the best way to walk them is by starting at either Ledbury or Malvern Link railway station, walking the full length of the ridge and returning to the starting point by rail.

p1060344Never one to take my own advice I was up there a few days ago; not a weekend, but the second monday of the ‘industrial shut-down fortnight’ (if that still has any meaning) and slap bang in middle of the school holidays. It was a day for slipping away down some of those byways; the lesser known tracks, little trodden paths, half-hidden among the undergrowth of high summer.
     
A warm westerly – probably my favourite of all winds – was blowing, gathering strength as the day progressed but not on this occasion, as is so often the case, a precursor to rain. In many ways the wind defines the character of these hills on any given day: a winter north-easterly can carry a bite which might come as a surprise to some, at these relatively modest altitudes; a legacy of its uninterrupted journey from the Ural mountains across the
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Another surprise is that at their highest point the hills don’t quite make 1,400 feet. Viewed from the east or, to put it another way, from the direction of the M5, their lift above the surrounding landscape would suggest somewhat greater height. This is possibly the aspect from which they are most frequently observed and there is an exaggerated effect from the way they rise quickly from the low-lying expanses of the Severn/Avon flood plain.
p1060354This slightly peculiar geography is also the source of the contrasting views east and west. To the east lie the relatively featureless south and south-east midlands, dissolving into East Anglia beyond. The views west are to the Brecon Beacons, the central Wales plateau and – scanning around a little further north – the hills of south Shropshire.
The hills fall under the stewardship of the Malvern Hills Conservators and receipts from car-parking charges go towards their work. One of their continuing projects is the use of spells of controlled grazing in an attempt to protect and sustain habitat. The beneficial effects of this work show a marked distinction to some of the Shropshire hills, where indiscriminate over-grazing has consigned many hectares of moorland to alternating periods of mud and dust, accompanied by the inevitable erosion issues.

From the vaults: Changing places (20/11/2010)

Changing places…

The birds have either moved or are on the move; whether they’ve relocated to a more sheltered spot just around the corner or upped sticks for a winter in Senegal, they’re no longer to be found where they were last time we looked. Places which were hotbeds of activity just a few weeks ago are eerily quiet. It’s as if there was a close season on certain parts of the heath and among particular types of vegetation. It was the same a year ago.

Elsewhere, in the woods in particular, familiar haunts are being reoccupied; and by the same species, possibly the very same individuals, we would see there as last winter approached. The mixed flock of long-tailed, blue and great tits moving through and around the same tight cluster of trees, when there are thousands of others to choose from; suggesting that there is something to their liking in the vicinity of those particular branches at this time in the natural cycle. The long-tailed tits in particular seem to be in a state of constant movement, probably less random and more structured than it appears to the human eye; like animated and colourful shuttlecocks. The single goldcrest which was their habitual companion twelve months past is yet to reappear; in so far as it’s possible to be certain where something as small and mobile as a goldcrest is concerned.

The ravens, last seen and heard around Easter time, are back and making their presence felt; they appear to have a regular beat, a favoured side of the hills, and to have returned to it. No blackcaps or bullfinches as yet, but it would be a strange winter without them.

So we get to enjoy someone else’s birds for a while, and ours provide variety and entertainment – hopefully in exchange for hospitality – elsewhere. It’s a good arrangement.